Tri Cycling Africa

HomeBack to the homepage. JourneyThe filmmakers cycled a tandem recumbent tricycle over the dusty landscapes of West Africa. Over two months they crossed five countries from Bamako, the capital of Mali, up to the legendary city of Timbuktu on the southern edge of the Sahara Desert, south through Burkina Faso, Ghana, then Togo and Benin. This is the motivation behind the journey. TrailerDownload an extended trailer for the documentary series. Media KitDownload an electronic press kit (includes full synopsis, crew bios, episode breakdowns, director's statement and more), brochure and white paper. PhotosSome images from the trip. BlogsOutside the making of the documentary, this is a series of emails sent home during the trip. They are completely honest accounts from the filmmakers of the highs and lows of travelling in a foreign place. ContactThe series is currently seeking distribution. Click here to contact the producer. CreditsThis project would not have been possible without...

JEFF McLEAN'S BLOG | MARTY POUWELSE'S BLOG

10/10/2002 - Mopti, MALI

Hi there!

We arrived in Mopti last night, after advance warning that the touts here are bad. The truth was realised the moment we got off the bus (after inadvertantly getting off at an earlier stop and only just managing to get back on as it was pulling away). The hoards started before we were even off the bus with arms extended, insisting they take our luggage and go with them in their taxi. We knew exactly where we were headed so we started walking briskly, repeating "non merci, non merci". It did little good as four or five guides (read "bloody annoying arseholes") walked the entire ten minutes with us to our hotel giving us dud warnings about Mopti, and other worthless propaganda, in order to sell their business. Even during our transaction with the hotel operator they persisted. Only when we had the room key in our hand and the owner told them to clear off did they finally leave us alone. Again, not a nice introduction to a town, but at least we were somewhat prepared. Though, it seems we can't even eat in peace. Touts even approached our table at our restaurant last night trying to sell their wares. "Non merci" is quickly becoming my mantra.

As if the touts aren't bad enough, the prices here are absurd. I guess they are both a result of the tourism here - this is one of the few places where you can catch a boat to Timbuktu. We paid as much, if not more for dinner here last night as we would in Australia. Even net access is about AU$7 an hour - it's cheaper in London and France! We hear that Timbuktu is just as bad if not worse... if only they realised what they're doing is harming them. I keep telling myself they're only trying to make money, but it's difficult to stay positive. I wouldn't recommend Mopti to anyone. I do, however, have a resolve to enjoy the sights here, despite the negatives.

Our last night in Bamako was wonderful as we got a terrific thunderstorm. The lightning persisted locally for over two hours, and the rain was still falling when we woke at 6 the following morning. We got several fabulous bolts less than 1km away and even got a few on video. That following morning was a wet and dirty introduction to riding a tandem recumbent trike, as we cycled 12kms from our hotel to the bus station. My legs were fine, but my body received a continuous grubby shower from the two wheels in front of me. It only took a minute or so to realise there was no way to avoid it, so I accepted the situation and very much enjoyed the ride.

Getting the 4m long trike and trailer onto the bus at Lé Gaire Routiere (Bamako bus station) was a joyfully uneventful experience. Jeff was prepared for the worst as he's done this many times before, but it was relatively quick and painless. Before long we'd started our 6hr bus ride to San. The ride was quite comfortable apart from running over a motorcycle at 100km/h. Not quite sure how it happened, but I saw lots of rubber and debris up against the side of the bus window, and with the terrible crunching noise, I feared the worst. After a few seconds of dealing with what I might see on the road behind us I turned around and the rider was thankfully standing on the side of the road next to his new lump of scrap metal. Almost all the passengers followed the driver back to the scene to talk with the rider. I felt loathe to be a spectator and waited. Fifteen minutes later we were off again.

San was a beautiful contrast to Mopti and Bamako. We saw NO white tourists, and as a result, very few touts; stayed in a peaceful hotel on the edge of town and it was just gorgeous. Even the centre of town was relatively peaceful. This was like a little country town. Our only dissappointment was a CFA1000 (almost AU$3) cup of crappy instant Nescafe coffee. Normally we'd pay CFA300 for a brewed cup of good (what I assume to be) African coffee.

We've left the trike in San while we catch public transport to Timbuktu and back. Yesterday it was a 4hr bus ride (which was 2.5hrs late) from San through Djienne to Mopti. From the bus it really felt like were getting closer to the desert. The landscape was getting flatter and the dirt was getting redder. Every 15kms or so we'd pass by a tiny village apparently contructed entirely of mud, and sheer rock formations would occassionally spring out of the horizon in rather stark contrast.

Our boat leaves tonight. Delux, 1st, 2nd, and 3rd classes were all full, supposedly (there are scams where you're offered one of these rooms for a baksheesh (bribe) once on the boat). These rooms range from private delux rooms (that's "delux" for Africa!), to 8-person dorm rooms. We have 4th class which is whatever space is left on the floor and roof of the vessel. The guide book says an infinite number of these tickets are sold, so we need to get on the boat as soon as it arrives at 3pm to secure a space. We have heard, however, that the roof is actually cooler than a room, and with less mosquitoes. In any case, I'm sure it'll be an interesting three days to Timbuktu!

Ciao for now!

Love,
Marty.

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